This guide covers everything you need to know about the Ella Odyssey, from the route, the timetable, how to book, the best seats, and what to do when the journey ends. Spoiler: if you’re coming to Ella, we’d love to welcome you to Anasa Wellness Resort – our home in the hills of Bandarawela, just a short drive away.
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There’s a moment somewhere between Kandy and Ella – the train rounds a bend, the mist lifts, and suddenly you’re looking at rolling tea country stretching as far as the eye can see. It’s almost unreal.
And if you’re lucky enough to be on the Ella Odyssey train, that moment comes with a comfortable seat and big windows. The kind of slow travel that makes you want to never step out of the train.
The Ella Odyssey is a premium tourist train. It runs through Sri Lanka’s hill country, and it’s a step up from the regular Kandy to Ella train that most backpackers take.
Here’s the main difference: the regular intercity train (usually Train No. 1005 or the Udarata Menike) is a working commuter service. It gets crowded. The unreserved carriages fill up fast. While the views are still stunning, the experience can be hit or miss.
The Ella Odyssey, on the other hand? It’s designed specifically for this scenic Ella train ride experience. The train is essentially an observation car with the best views outside your window.
For families, older travellers, or anyone who wants to enjoy the scenic train ride in Sri Lanka without the chaos of the regular service, the Ella Odyssey is worth every rupee.
The Ella Odyssey route follows the main hill country rail line. It is widely considered one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.
The journey typically departs from Colombo Fort or Kandy and makes its way up through the central highlands before descending into Ella. Key stations along the way are Peradeniya, Hatton, Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya), Haputale, and Bandarawela (which is right next to us at Anasa) before finally arriving at Ella station.
As you travel, the scenery creates a wonderful shift. You go from the lush lowlands near Kandy, through the cool, mist-covered tea estates of the central highlands, past waterfalls tumbling down rocky hillsides, and through a series of tunnels and bridges that are engineering marvels in their own right.
The most famous stop on this stretch is the Nine Arch Bridge – more on that below.
The Ella Odyssey train timetable can change seasonally, so always confirm with Sri Lanka Railways or your hotel before you travel. Here is a general guide for your knowledge:
– Colombo Fort to Ella: Roughly 9 – 10 hours (the full journey)
– Kandy to Ella: Around 6 – 7 hours
Trains typically depart Colombo in the early morning around 7am to ensure you arrive in daylight.
The easiest way is through the Sri Lanka Railways online booking portal, which opens 30 days before departure. Seats on the Ella Odyssey fill up fast – especially first-class observation carriages – so book as early as possible.
You can also book through a licensed travel agent. You can even ask your accommodation to arrange it. If you’re staying with us at Anasa Wellness Resort, our team is happy to help you sort out logistics before you arrive, so you can focus on relaxing.
Cost: Ella Odyssey tickets are priced higher than the standard train, reflecting the premium experience. Expect to pay more than you would for a regular first-class ticket, but significantly less than a private car transfer.
These are the little insider tips that you might need to know before booking your trip.
If you’re travelling from Kandy to Ella, sit on the right side (when facing the direction of travel). This gives the majority of the standout views, especially approaching the tea country. The valley drops away on this side, and you’ll get the best light in the morning.
That said, the views switch sides multiple times throughout the journey as the train curves through the mountains, so you’ll catch scenery from both sides.
Go for the observation car if it’s available on your service – the panoramic windows make an enormous difference.
Avoid seats near the toilet compartments or in the middle of a carriage if possible.
For photography, an open door vestibule (if permitted) gives you the clearest shots, though be safe about it.
Morning vs afternoon: The morning light hitting the tea estates is genuinely magical. The Kandy to Ella train in the morning direction (Ella-bound) means you’re catching the best light over the highlands.
Two engineering landmarks make this journey genuinely unmissable.
The Nine Arch Bridge – just outside Ella – is one of the most photographed spots in Sri Lanka. Built entirely from stone and brick during the British colonial era (without a single piece of steel), it cuts a dramatic arc through the jungle canopy.
Watching the train cross it from below is extraordinary. We run excursions to the Nine Arch Bridge from Anasa, so you can see it from both perspectives – from the train and from the viewing spots below.
The Demodara Loop is another highlight unique to this stretch of track. Just before Ella, the train performs a loop that actually passes over itself. The track curves around so tightly that it crosses a bridge above the tunnel it just came through. It’s a remarkable piece of railway engineering, and most passengers don’t even realise what’s happening until someone points it out.
In between these landmarks, you’re passing through the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country. You’ll see workers in the fields, small estate bungalows dotting the hillsides, and the occasional waterfall appearing without warning around a bend.
Here’s the thing about the Ella train ride: it’s meditative. There’s something about 08 hours of slow travel through beautiful landscape that genuinely resets your soul. But the journey itself can also be tiring – early starts, long hours, and the physical effort of carrying your bags across busy platforms.
That’s where we come in.
At Anasa Wellness Resort, we’re tucked into the hills of Bandarawela – about 30 minutes from Ella station – surrounded by eucalyptus forest and tea estates. Pairing the Ella Odyssey with a few nights here turns a great trip into something really restorative.
After you step off the train, here’s what we’d suggest:
Unwind at Sukoon, our onsite spa. Our Sukoon spa and wellness facility offers holistic treatments designed to ease tension and restore balance. It’s exactly what your body needs after a long journey. You will be able to enjoy everything from therapeutic massages to Ayurvedic treatments.
Join a wellness programme. If you’re staying for a few days, our specialised wellness programmes would be amazing for you. We combine spa treatments, yoga, nutrition guidance, and fitness activities into a structured retreat. It’s a complete reset.
Practise yoga in the hills. Our yoga programme runs from therapeutic and restorative practices to aerial yoga – guided by our in-house expert. Doing yoga with a view of the misty highlands is something you won’t forget.
Stay in our hill country chalets. Our accommodation is designed to be your comfortable base in the hills – spacious, well-equipped, and surrounded by nature. Check availability and book your stay here.
And if recovery is on your mind – whether from travel fatigue, physical strain, or an injury – our visiting specialists include a chiropractor, acupuncturist, and Ayurvedic doctor. You might also find our post on How Physiotherapy Can Accelerate Your Recovery Post-Injury useful reading before your trip.
A few things from experience before you go:
– Pack for cool temperatures. Even in Sri Lanka’s summer, the hill country can get genuinely cold, especially in the early morning. Bring a light jacket or jumper. At Bandarawela, the average temperature is around 18°C all year.
– Very important: book well in advance. The Ella Odyssey train timetable fills up fast, particularly from December to March (peak season) and around Sri Lankan public holidays. Don’t leave it to the last minute.
– Bring snacks and water. The journey is long. While there may be a basic food service, you’ll be grateful for your own provisions.
– Camera essentials: A wide-angle lens is ideal for the sweeping valley views. For the Nine Arch Bridge, a telephoto helps from the vantage points below. Keep your camera close because great shots appear without warning.
– Motion sickness: The hill country line has a lot of curves and elevation changes. If you’re prone to motion sickness, sit facing the direction of travel and keep a window cracked if possible.
– Arrive early at the station. Even with reserved seats on the Ella Odyssey, platforms can be chaotic. Give yourself at least 20-30 minutes before departure.
Ready to make the journey? The Ella Odyssey is one of those travel experiences that stays with you long after the train pulls into the station.
And if you’d like to make the most of it – body, mind, and all – Anasa Wellness Resort is here to welcome you to the hills. Reach out to our team to learn more about your next journey on the Ella Odyssey.
– What is the difference between the Ella Odyssey and the normal Ella train?
The regular Kandy to Ella train is a working commuter service. The Ella Odyssey is a premium tourist train with a more comfortable overall experience. It costs more but is worth it if a quality scenic train ride in Sri Lanka is your goal.
– How long does the Ella Odyssey train journey take?
From Colombo Fort to Ella, the journey takes around 10 hours. From Kandy, you’re looking at approximately 6 hours. Delays are not uncommon on Sri Lankan railways, so build some flexibility into your plans.
– How do I book Ella Odyssey train tickets?
The best way is through the Sri Lanka Railways online portal at seatreservation.railway.gov.lk, which opens 30 days before travel. You can also book via a licensed travel agent or ask your hotel – we’re happy to assist guests at Anasa.
– Which side of the train has the best views?
On the Kandy to Ella direction, the right side (facing forward) generally has the most dramatic valley views through the highlands. However, the scenery is all around you because the train curves so much that both sides have great moments.
– Is the Ella Odyssey train suitable for families and older travellers?
Yes; the Ella Odyssey is specifically more comfortable than the regular train. Reserved seating, smoother carriages, and the structured experience make it well-suited for families, older travellers, and anyone who wants to enjoy the Ella train ride without the hustle of the standard service.
– Where can I stay near Ella after the train journey?
We’d love to have you at Anasa Wellness Resort in Bandarawela, just 30 minutes from Ella station. We’re a luxury wellness retreat set in the hill country, with a spa, yoga, wellness programmes, and beautiful accommodation. It’s the perfect place to wind down after the journey. Explore our rooms and check availability here.
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